Belize and Guatemala

Trip description:

Maya Ruins, Barrier Reef and Jungle Adventure
1997 Saturday, June 7 - Thursday, June 19
Leader:  Hamish Duthie
Duration: 13 Days
Rating: Easy day hikes, cultural explorations and snorkelling. Suitable for all levels of fitness
** Note: Optional scuba diving is available during the cruise.

The warm, rich tropical waters of the Caribbean, that lap up against the coast of Belize, have created the most extensive and longest living coral reef, in the Western Hemisphere. Our adventure begins as we board the elegant sailing ship Rembrandt van Rijn to explore breathtaking azure waters and  beautiful coral atolls, including the famous Blue Hole and Lighthouse Reef. The shallow waters inside the coral!
Reefs provide superb snorkelling and, for the more adventurous, our ship is equipped with complete dive gear.
Belize is blessed with some of the finest examples of the rich Maya culture that flourished along the Ruta Maya. We will visit Tikal and Xunantunich, two of over 600 significant, jungle veiled, archaeological sites. From our base at a comfortable private lodge, we will set out on excursions that include a canoe ride on the tropical Belite River, and hikes into the surrounding rain forests. You will be amazed by thrilling waterfalls and the astounding diversity of flora and fauna such as the 250 varieties of orchids and some 300 native bird species.
Belize has been described as an adventurer's paradise.
 
 

Purpose:

The two topics I have chosen for observation and research are:

1.  A comparison between the flora and fauna within the Ojibway Nature Reserve and the Tikal National Park.

Observation of the diversity of birds, trees, amphibians, reptiles and animals will be used for the comparison.  Recording climate will be a major component with this work.  I have obtained a monthy summary of the weather for the month of June for both Belize and Windsor which will help to explain the variations and patterns observed in these two parks.  The Ojibway Nature Reserve encompasses 127 hectares of land while Tikal occupies an area of 576 square kilometers.  These two differences in size will be accounted for when observing.  It will be interesting to research the differences and similarities that these two parks display.

The main focus of this project will be to observe the variety of bird species.

Questions:

• types of animals
•  types of reptiles
• types of amphibians
• types of birds
• types of trees
• types of insects, poisonous
• how do they conserve the park
• how is the park being degraded

2.  Identification of fish, observation of territorialism and schooling behaviour and reaction to divers at each island.

I would like to be able to identify the fish at each island and observe their behaviour.  Temperature of the water, depth and visibility measurements will be taken on each dive.  Also, possible disturbances to the reef will be observed and noted while the disturbance hypothesis is encorporated.

An alternative topic includes a comparison between the fish of Belize and those in the Florida Keys.  I have recorded the fish observed in the Florida Keys and have plenty of information to make this comparison.
 

The journal:

Planned itinerary
Flight to Belize City and transfer to the Rembrandt van Rijn.  Belize City is the cultural and economic capital of the country, but is still by western standards, a small town.  After dinner and registration we sail to Placencia.

What we did!
Morning
We arrived in Belize City at 11:30 am.  After stepping out onto the carport in 89 degrees Fahrenheit mostly sunny weather we waited for our luggage and then cleared customs.  We met Rebecca first, then Hamish Duthie and his wife.  We were picked up by associates of John and Carolyn Carr- owners of the Banana Bank Lodge - then we travelled through Belize City, a pseudo capital  of small roads and simply built homes with barred windows.  We arrived at the Fort George hotel to wait to be transported to the Rembrandt van Rjn.  Fort George is considered a moderate hotel located along the east coast of Belize.  It has a outdoor swimming pool that is overlooked by a wooden deck.  On the east side of the pool a garden is present housing orchids, ferns, palm trees and a variety of birds.  Many male and female frigate birds littered the sky along with various brown pelicans.  Smaller birds hid in the palm trees.  The Belizean flag was raised high at Fort George.  At 5:30 pm we left the luxury of Fort George and awaited a Zodiac on a wooden dock where we talked with Indira and Andrea, two new colleagues who would be joining our group.  A delicate lighthouse offered a great picture opportunity.

Afternoon
We were transferred to the Rembrandt van Rjn were we met many crew members.  There were a total of eleven crew members and eleven passengers on the ship.  The Rembrandt van Rjn is a three mast gaff topsail schooner  with a maximum capacity of 36 passengers and 8 crew.  Its overall length is 56 meters and has a average speed under sail of 8 knots or while under engines a speed of 9 knots.  The layout consists of a restaurant for 42 passengers, lounge, bar, TV video, messroom, laundry, galley, air conditioning and a day compression tank for divers.  Sleeping accommodations consisted of private double berth cabins accompanying a private shower and toilet. The deck consisted of hardwood flooring at the bow while at the stern there was a diving storage area.We left Fort George at approximately 8:00 pm to head for Placencia.  The sky is full of stars and a lightening storm is visible ahead.  Although, we continue through the night and in the morning remnants of this storm are fairly visible.

June 8, 1997

Planned itinerary
At Placencia lagoon we are going to look for the various bird species around the mangrove covered shores and you have a chance to see Manatees.  In the evening we set sail for Livingston, Guatemala.

What we did!
Morning
We awake to the sights and sounds of Placencia from the sailing vessel.  First, we explore the mangrove lagoons via Zodiac.  Bird sightings include a roadside hawk, anhinga, roseate spoonbill, bittern, brown jay, great white egret, turkey vulture, black vulture and a white ibis.  We are introduced to the different plants of the mangroves.  There are three different types of mangroves but, those dominating our view are the black mangroves with many long prop roots.  The red mangroves are less resistant to wave action and hence are sheltered by the black mangroves.  Mangroves have glands on their leaves (visible black dots) that excrete salt.  These plants are very resistant to decay and are very rarely grazed though, they can suffer from water stress.
 

After beaching the Zodiacs on one of the well developed flora/fauna mangrove islands we observed many bromeliads which grow symbiotically with other plants.  The bromeliad flower is tulip like and peach in colour and was growing on many plamentos.  The interior of this island had many tall grasses and few trees.  It appeared swampy and very barren.  It was a good representation of the past vegetation that dominated the Belizean area.  Once back on the zodiacs further exploration lead us to a manatee and a labyrinth of more mangroves.

Afternoon
The captain had decided to investigate this unexplored island - Harvest Cay.  This island had a small sandy shoreline with a extensive point bar.  Many conch shells and sea stars were present in the abundant sea grass.  The island was also populated with many mangroves, beetles, and barnacles.
 
 

Evening
Visited a common congregation area for the town's people of Placencia.  They come to this bar to drink, talk and watch television - the only one in town.  People are very friendly and live very simple lives.  This area is a developing tourist area.  They are building better hotels and restaurants for their guests.  Progress is slow but continuous.  The little children are not shy and take a liking to "unusually coloured" visitors.  Off the pier a barracuda and blowfish reside.  We return to the ship for dinner at 7:00 pm.  We set sail for Livingston, Guatemala at 10:00 pm.

June 9, 1997

Planned itinerary
After an early breakfast and custom clearing we will go up the Rio Dulce river by zodiac.  The rainforest along the sides has a high diversity of both flora and fauna.  This is the spot where the first Tarzan movies with Johnny Weismuller were shot.  In the river you may see Manatees and river dolphins.  Along the shores you will find Mayan hunter-collectors, living their lives in a traditional way.
 

What we did!
Morning
After clearing Guatemala customs in Livingston we head down the Rio Dulce.  Weather is mostly cloudy with a slight breeze and high humidity.  This is a fresh water river but unsuitable to drink.  High cliffs of lush vegetation dominate both sides of the river.  Undercutting is evident in the rocks on either side.  Many people are fishing in the river by casting nets off the sides of their hand made wooden bokas.  The abundance of green vegetation is astonishing.  Occasionally red or yellow flowers peak out from this green carpet.  Some of the trees present include ferns, bromeliads, cercropia, papia and many hibiscus.  We passed many homes along the river and at one home a pontoon boat was used for transporting children to and from school along the river.

Afternoon
We stopped along the river at an opening to have lunch.  Remnants indicate that this area was a small banana plantation in the past.  We explore this area which leads us off into the jungle via stone steps.  A Heliconia,  pollinated by bats, cashew trees and cannon-ball trees are observed.  The leaves of most trees are large and waxy .  Trunks are not circular but elongated and moon shaped at the bottom and become more circular at the top.  There are very few berries and flowers on these trees which have visible root systems.  Stripped grasshoppers, red ants, spotted blue spiders and many praying mantis' litter the plantation.  A well camouflaged iguana also frequents the area.  We returned to the boat and continued our touring towards the lower point of the river.  Some trees grow out from the rock perpendicular to the water while others grow hanging upside down from a cliff.  There are very few vines and those that are present have enormous leaves.   There is evidence of many landslides and slash and burn agriculture.  This clearly devastates the land.  The water level in this river changes between the wet and dry season.
 

We docked at Livingston, Guatemala after exploring the river.  This town has one main road, Calle principal, lined by many restaurants and small tourist shops with homemade shirts, carpets and wooden masks.  Coca Cola, Pepsi and Crush have invaded this area - pop signs hang from restaurant doors.  We met a man by the name of Ralph, a retired navy officer and presently a teacher, who explained a little about the culture of the people of Livingston.  The people work hard tending their land.  Their children are sent to school so they can become more educated and able to deter large companies from buying up their remaining land.  Children wear uniforms to the catholic school and stay for weeks at a time.  They attend school everyday from 10:00 am until 6:00 pm.  Once finished a session of two weeks of school they look to a fisherman who is heading back up the river to their home.  After talking to Ralph about agricultural techniques it was evident that slash and burn techniques are the only means by which to farm in this hilly area.  After a plot of land is slashed it is burned immediately to release the nutrients which collect on the top five inches of the ground.  This land can then only be farmed for five to ten years and then a new plot of land must be slashed and burned.  It is a destructive way to farm but, presently it appears to be the only solution.

June 10, 1997

Planned itinerary
In the morning we sail to the Seven Alters, a former holy place of the Maya culture.  This place was formed by a vulcano.  The seven steps of lava are now a beautiful waterfall.  In the afternoon we will leave for Punta Gorda fo custom clearing.  Punta Gorda is a Garifuna village (Garfunas are a mixture of West-African and Caribbean natives) they have their own language and cultural identity.  We anchor in the night near the entrance of Monkey River.
 

What we did!
Morning
After leaving Livingston last night we sailed back into Belize territory to visit the Seven Alters.  We anchored in approximately 50 feet of water and travelled by zodiac to land.  The seven alters are named for seven pools that formed by volcanic activity.  They are located within lush green vegetation housing an abundance of flora and fauna.  The pools are feed by underwater springs and hence, contain cool fresh water.  The water pools in each pool and then flows into the lower one.  Though, the seven pools are not easily distinguished from one another.  Presently, water flow is very slow at some points, similar to a leaking facet, and moderate speeds at others.  The seven pools are bordered by hills on either side.  Fortunately, it is not raining as we explore the pools hence, we are not concerned with excessive runoff flooding the area.  At the beginning of the seven pools stood a hilltop that had been cleared via slash and burn for agriculture.  The soil of this land was very poor, littered with rocks and boulders and the angle of the land would certainly lead to loose of topsoil during a rain.   We spotted many Amazon kingfishers, red fire ants, and a diamond spotted toad.  Leaves are decomposing in the water at an accelerated rate.  Once back at the beach we can see the stream of water flowing from the pools out to the ocean.
 

Afternoon
In the afternoon we visit Punta Gorda.  A small town located on the east coast of Belize.  They have a central park and bell tower in the centre of the park.  They have unusual hours of operation - 9-12, 1-3, 6-9.  Many bars and few people.  The extreme temperatures of noon keep people inside out of the sun.  The town is very simple with paved roads and few fences.  Coca cola has once again invaded this area.  We have a beer at a local bar and question the quality of the ice we are drinking.  The ice has to be chipped apart with an ice pick.  Three young girls sell us some baskets made out of Gippa Jappa.  They explain the process to us and we take some pictures.  We head back to the ship to sail for Monkey River.

June 11, 1997
Planned itinerary
After a little snack and some coffee (at 05:00 hours!!) we will go by Zodiax up the Monkey River.  You may see and hear the black howler monkeys with a variety of toucan species, parrots and other jungle birds.  In the water and on the shores there could be crocodiles.
In the afternoon we will sail for Laughing Bird Caye, a national park, where you may see a variety fo sea birds.
In the early evening we will pass the Barrier reef, through Gladden Spit to Half Moon Caye.

What we did!
Morning
At 5:00 am we explore Monkey River via Zodiacs.  We must first cross a shallow sand bar to reach the mangroves.  Once across we travel through a maze of mangrove vegetation and sight numerous bird species.  Bird sightings include:

anhinga masket tityra
aztec parakeet  montezuma oropendula
bare-throated tiger heron osprey
black headed saltator plain chachalaca
boat billed flycatcher roadside hawk
brown jay scarlet rumped tanager
common black hawk  social flycatcher
great kiskadee sulphur bellied flycatcher
green kingfisher sun grebe
grey necked wood rail turkey vulture
keel billed toucan turkey vulture
lineated woodpecker white necked jacobin
mangrove swallow yellow backed oriole
mangrove swallow yellow crowned night heron

Fish Coral Creatures
barracuda blushing star coral brown fan worm
blue striped lizard fish boulder brain coral donkey dung sea cucumber
blue tang branching fire coral hermit crabs
doctor fish elkhorn coral queen conch shells
dusky damselfish encrusting sea fans reef urchin
four eye butterflyfish hemisphere head variety rock boring urchin
grey angelfish staghorn coral sand dollar
hog fish thin leaf lettuce coral sea walnut
hound fish tube coral spiny lobsters
porkfish venus sea fan
queen angelfish white scroll alga
spotted goat fish
stoplight parrotfish
striped parrotfish
yellow tail damselfish
yellow tail snapper

This island is largely populated by hermit crabs of various shapes and sizes.  Although, the island and its inhabitants are easily disturbed by changes in weather as there is no protection around the island.

June 12, 1997
Planned itinerary
In the morning we will go to Half Moon Caye at Lighthouse reef.  This is a protected are since 1982.  The island is half covered by dense vegetation.  Here you see the red-footed boobies and american fregatbirds.  There are 98 other bird species visiting this small island along with iguanas and lizards.
There are possibilities for diving and snorkling.  The reefs of Half Moon Caye are amongst the most beautiful reefs of the world.
In the night we will sail to to Harry Jones Point (Turneffe Islands).

What we did!
Morning
Arrived at Half Moon Cay, Belize.  Diving location is Lighthouse reef - great diving spot.  First dive at 9:00 am with Dad, Rebecca, Indira, Saunder, Ian and Hamish. Water temperature is 84 degrees Fahrenheit, visibility 60 feet and maximum depth is 69 feet.  The reef is in excellent condition and no evidence of coral bleaching.  Appears to be a stable and strong mature reef.  Sightings include:

black grouper queen angelfish
blue parrotfish rock beauty
blue tang spotfin butterflyfish
bluehead wrasse (terminal phase) squirrel fish
dog snapper stingrays
foureye butterflyfish stoplight parrotfish (initial and terminal phase)
french angelfish striped parrotfish
hog fish white grunt
midnight parrotfish yellow tail snapper
porkfish yellowtail damselfish

Afternoon
We explored Half Moon Cay and we sighted red footed boobies.  These are large frigate like birds in the adult  phase with red feet.  In the juvenile phase the birds are white in colour and are black in the adult phase.  They appear to sleep with their heads hung upside down.  We explored the remainder of the island.  It had hundreds of corals and conch shells washed up on the shoreline.  The island has a lighthouse to signal ships of the east reef.  We returned to the ship for our last dive.  This is the first night dive for my dad and I and we thoroughly enjoyed it.  Sightings include an enormous grouper that was frightened by the night light, millions of polyps on the corals, they are out at night to feed, many squirrel fish and striped blue tangs.  Overall, diving was excellent and fish were larger than expected.

June 13, 1997
Planned itinerary
In the morning we will tour the lagoon by Zodiac to bird-watch.  In the afternoon there is a possibility to snorkle or dive.  In the evening we will sail to Caye Bokel.  After Captains Dinner we will go by Zodiac into Turneffe lagoon.
In the lagoon there is a chance to see crocodiles.  In the night we will sail for Belize City.

What we did!
Morning
We arrived at Bokey Cay, Turneffe Islands for our last day.  Our first dive began at 8:45 am - a drift dive.  Water temperature was 84 degrees Fahrenheit.  There was a slight current that kept us moving past the coral heads, groupers and sea cucumbers.  An eagle ray was spotted soaring in 76 feet of water.  There was still evidence of hurricane damage on the reefs.  Visibility was approximately 60 feet.  Many tube corals dominated the bottom.  Our second dive consisted of a shallower reef dive.  The bottom was mainly coral and sand and visibility was good.  We took many pictures of the reefs and their inhabitants.  Fish sightings include a loggerhead turtle, flamingo tongue, eagle ray, many porkfish and triggerfish.  There were many differences between this reef and the reef at Half Moon Cay.  This reef was very open and low to the ground.  Very young in the development stage.  Our third dive was once again at this sight and we took many pictures.  Maximum depth was 35 feet on our third dive.  It would be interesting to see successional changes of this reef after a disturbance.

Afternoon
We sailed for Fort George.  We had our last meal with the captain and spent many hours packing our diving gear and cleaning our cabins to prepare for our next adventure.
 

Click here to continue to page two where we explore the ancient Mayan Ruins of Guatemala.